La Cote Braisee, Saint-Emilion

Lunch at La Cote Braisee, 3 Rue Tente, Saint-Emilion, next to Le Tertre. We chose the simple menu, which was well accompanied by a Bordeaux Rose. It is an inexpensive place, cordial and honest. Recommended for a gourmand that needs a decent lunch, without pretensions, and in which the wallet gets a rest.

Salvador and Illuminata

Hostellerie de Plaisance, Saint-Emilion

The dinner at the terrace of the Hostellerie de Plaisance (Place du Clocher, Saint-Emilion, 2 Michelin stars) was memorable because of the location, views, food, and the service quality. From the terrace of the Hotel and Restaurant, and in the middle of this wonderful town that goes back to the X Century, you can see the historic vineyards of Saint-Emilion, as well as the successive constructions, churches, and fortifications that make this magnificent place a World Heritage Site.

We chose the Discovery Menu, that is, a menu decided and made on the spot in which all plates are a surprise. We were approached by Chef Philippe Etchebest, elected with the desirable "Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2000," to welcome us, and to ask if we had any real or imaginary allergy, so that he could better let his imagination run. He decided that we would have Cepe/Poele, Foie gras de canard, Turbot sauvage, Poitrine de veau, followed by cheeses and 2 desserts, with small changes of flavor (Amuse Bouche) in between each course. We accompanied the food with a 2005 Clerc Millon (Pauillac, with strong terroir and a very fine structure), and the desserts with a Doisy Vedrines 2002 (Sauternes).

Without a doubt, the 2 Michelin stars are well deserved, even though the service was a bit impersonal, and in which the roles are reversed: it is the restaurant that makes a favor for allowing us to enjoy their wonderful food, as opposed to us, the clients, making it possible for them to exist. Vive la France! Two details are worth mentioning: First, the incredible view, without comparison anywhere in the world. And the second, something we have never seen before: a tray, not of desserts, cheeses or pisco, but of teas! In other words, a tray with a series of crystal pots in which there are dozens of varieties of mints, chamomiles, boldos, happily grow, and which are trimmed on site with specially designed tiny scissors. There is no way to complain that the infusion is not fresh.

To all of this, we need to add that there was a huge, bright, full moon, and that it was Illuminata´s 50th birthday. After almost 4 hours of these successive pleasures, Monsieur Etchebest once again approached us, at the time of the birthday cake, to ask, with a huge smile, if we were satisfied.... in summary, an unforgettable and highly recommendable place.

Salvador and Illuminata

Logis de la Cadene, Saint-Emilion

We dined at Logis de la Cadene, 3 place du Marche au Bois (and across the street from Le Tertre), Saint-Emilion, following the recommendation of celebrated wine critic Robert Parker in its fourth edition of Bordeaux wine. It was a grave mistake. Although the place is very beautiful because it is surrounded by a medieval atmosphere and has a wonderful terrace, the problems were numerous, including insect that tormented us throughout, and a service that was clumsy vulgar, and horrendous.

The food was relatively good and simple, and the brochettes of pork trip, the flagship dish, were stupendous. Nevertheless, the place is a tourist trap, among whom, dear readers, you are no longer included, and thus we trust that you will make sure to avoid the Logis de la Cadene in your next visit to Saint-Emilion.

Salvador and Illuminata

Le Tertre, Saint-Emilion

A memorable dinner at Restaurant Le Tertre, at the Rue du Tertre de la Tente, Saint-Emilion, France. Impossible to find through a GPS, even though it is in the heart of the town, in a very steep street that makes access quite challenging but fun. We arrived without a reservation, but were quickly accommodated in the best place of the restaurant, that is, the wine cellar which in reality is a carved space on the limestone wall. We had the fixed menu, surrounded by over 2,000 wines. Food in general was good, but the wine, Chateau la Tour-Mallet 2005, Pomerol, was exceptional. A wine with a lot of fruit but with a perfect balance and a great structure. One of the best wines we have ever had.

Salvador and Illuminata

Chateaux in Bordeaux, June 2010

We visited several Chateaux in Bordeaux, among them:

In Paulliac, Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Deuxieme Cru Classe en 1855. The Chateau itself is one of the most beautiful buildings, and the treatment we received was magnificent. The wines are elegant and balanced, with emphasis in maintaining the wine characteristics even in difficult vintages. Highly recommendable.

Also in Paulliac, Pontet-Canet, Cinquieme Cru Classe en 1855. They emphasize a "bio-dinamyc" system without pesticides or herbicides. They are even starting to use horses instead of tractors to minimize soil compaction. The subterranean cellar is dark, humid, and full of wines although these are not too old (the oldest goes back to 1940). We tried the 2003, fruity and balanced.

In Margaux, Chateau Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classe en 1855. It is not easy to visit the Chateau, and thus we had a lot of expectations, but the experience was disappointing. The Pavillion Rouge 2003 had nothing special to it, and the 2003 Margaux was austere, with little bouquet, although well balanced. We were fortunate to talk with Paul Pontallier, the Director General, a friendly and charismatic person.

In Graves, we visited Smith Haut-Lafite, recommendable for the beauty of the place. The wines are approachable, although quite commercial because they are enjoyed with ease, but lack the structure and complexity of a good Pauillac or Pomerol.

In Saint-Emilion, we visited Franc Mayne, interesting because of its huge underground limestone quarry caves which are now used as cellars, but the wines were not memorable, tannic, and with little fruit.

To visit the best Chateux en Bordeaux, it is indispensable to write ahead of time and to request appointments. The Chateaux that allow visitors without reservations are the most commercial and least interesting.

Salvador and Illuminata

Le Bouchon, Saint-Emilion

The first night we dinned at Le Bouchon (3 Place du Marche, St. Emilion 33330), in the picturesque and medieval town of Saint-Emilion. They have tables both outside (in the square) as well as inside. The food was very good but not exceptional or memorable. The house wine (Saint-Emilion!) was nice, Chateau Bernateau 2004, with good bouquet, terroir, fruit and balance. The square is not invaded by tourists like other European cities, which makes it peaceful and enjoyable.

Salvador and Illuminata

Bordeaux, France, June 2010

We will post several separate entries covering our Bordeaux and Paris trip on June 21-30, 2010. In Bordeaux, we stayed at the Hotel Chateau Grand Barrail (Rue de Liborne D243 Saint-Emilion), an excellent choice. It is an old Chateau, restored to modern standards, and surrounded by vineyards. Service is very good. It is located between the horrible town of Libourne and the extraordinary medieval town of Saint-Emilion. It is well located to visit the appellations of Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, and Lalande de Pomerol, but not to visit those in the left bank (Haut-Medoc, Graves) to which it can take up to two hours to get due to the traffic in the city of Bordeaux.

In general, a trip to Bordeaux is recommendable only to wine lovers, but not for the everyday traveler, even if sophisticated. With the exception of Saint-Emilion, the area is not the most beautiful in France. Rather, it is an agro-industrial zone with lots of trucks and large deposits along the roads. The wine zones themselves, i.e., the appellations are spectacular, particularly the Chateaux in the Haut-Medoc. Nevertheless, and unless these Chateaux can be visited from the inside, for which previous appointments and even recommendations are required, they can only be seen from the outside.

Salvador and Illuminata