El Mercado (substantially diminished in quality)

Yesterday, we went for lunch to El Mercado (Unanue 203 Miraflores). It is a shame, but it has substantially come down in quality. It is full of tourists and lacks the energy of before. The dishes lacked inspiration. We shared the Tempura de Langostinos y Calamares as a starter: a great disappointment. Illuminata's Tuna was dry and the vegetables very greasy and full of butter. Mi Ceviche a la Parrilla was hard to eat because it was served on a tiny skillet and the fish was not fresh. Finally, the Camomile was served on a minuscule cup and we had to return it. The check arrived on a very dirty envelope.

Our previous experiences at El Mercado were extraordinary because of the attention to detail. It is critical for Rafael Osterling (the Chef) to take a good look at the place to put order again, because when the cat is not there, the mice play.... Rafael, don't risk your prestige in this way.

Salvador e Illuminata

Reservations System in El Mercado

The reservations system in El Mercado is terrible. We made reservations for 5, one week ahead. We received a confirmation call 2 hours before the reservation day and time. Upon arrival, we were told that our name was in the waiting list. We had to complain vigorously to the Brazilian-accented girl at the door (who does not have the slightest idea of the meaning of the word hostess), so that finally, upon the intervention of one of the waitresses, we were accommodated at the table.

Besides this incident, the ambiance and food were extraordinary as we have said earlier.

Salvador

Punta Sal

Lunch at Punta Sal (Conquistadores 948 San Isidro) was very good and the attention correct. They had paper napkins on the table but we asked for cloth ones and these were provided immediately.

I started with a Maracuya Sour but it is not recommendable, it was acidic and with too much froth. We shared an extraordinary sampling with corvina brochettes, grilled octopus and squid, and tequenas. Our main courses were a fish ceviche, probably the best I have ever had. Illuminata had a sampling plate with a tiradito which was very good, but the crab causa had to much mayonnaise.

The fame of Punta Sal is well deserved. The secret of its quality seems to be the exclusive use of fresh ingredients and a healthy preparation. The food is highly recommendable.

A piece of advice: open a location with open ceilings. To eat fish and seafood in a closed place surrounded by glass (the way most of these restaurants are) is like being in a fish tank. It is this detail that places Pescados Capitales, El Mercado, and Amor a Mar in a superior pedestal.

Salvador e Illuminata

El Mercado

Last Saturday, we were finally able to lunch at El Mercado (Unanue 203 Miraflores). Given that it is impossible to get an open reservation, we ventured into it at 2 PM and were quickly accommodated at the Bar. What a surprise, it was the best seat in the house because we had in front of us no other than Chef Rafael Osterling himself inspecting and sending the plates to the tables like a switchboard. It was an amazing experience to observe Rafael totally focused and with more concentration than that of a pilot landing a 747-400, and placing on every single plate, without an exception, a last touch: a tiny bit of rock salt, a drop of olive oil.....and on a couple of occasions, sending back plates that were not worth his name. Evidently, the Chef Profession is as, or more sophisticated, than that of a Surgeon.

Going back to the Restaurant, and regarding the "noise" generated by its inauguration, we are convinced that all the hype is well deserved. The decoration is excellent, with high quality but simple materials, such as wood and tile. The critical details are those that made Pescados Capitales the Seafood Cathedral of Lima: high and open ceilings, a rural feeling to the place. But El Mercado greatly improves upon Pescados..... The service, the ambiance, and the food quality do not have comparison in Lima. It is a level of sophistication that has never been seen before. Service was correct, despite some lack of coordination to be expected from a brand new place. Nevertheless, the attention to detail places El Mercado at a new gastronomic level. Our most sincere congratulations.

The Maracuya Sour was perfect. The wines by the glass were not that great, attention to the wine list by the glass please! But food was spectacular: we shared the Ceviche El Mercado (their Flagship). Before I die, please, I want to vividly remember this dish.... a ceviche with Fried Calamari designed to be served to the Roman Gods at the Pantheon. The main courses were also memorable: Tacu-Tacu for Illuminata, and Tuna for me, with sophisticated flavors borrowed from Rafael, but with a touch of El Mercado.

In summary, this is the type of innovations that improve Peruvian food. It is competition that makes the tide go up, and keeps competitors under check. Improve upwards, or disappear. Peru wins. And so do we, as well as our exclusive readers.

Salvador