We visited several Chateaux in Bordeaux, among them:
In Paulliac, Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Deuxieme Cru Classe en 1855. The Chateau itself is one of the most beautiful buildings, and the treatment we received was magnificent. The wines are elegant and balanced, with emphasis in maintaining the wine characteristics even in difficult vintages. Highly recommendable.
Also in Paulliac, Pontet-Canet, Cinquieme Cru Classe en 1855. They emphasize a "bio-dinamyc" system without pesticides or herbicides. They are even starting to use horses instead of tractors to minimize soil compaction. The subterranean cellar is dark, humid, and full of wines although these are not too old (the oldest goes back to 1940). We tried the 2003, fruity and balanced.
In Margaux, Chateau Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classe en 1855. It is not easy to visit the Chateau, and thus we had a lot of expectations, but the experience was disappointing. The Pavillion Rouge 2003 had nothing special to it, and the 2003 Margaux was austere, with little bouquet, although well balanced. We were fortunate to talk with Paul Pontallier, the Director General, a friendly and charismatic person.
In Graves, we visited Smith Haut-Lafite, recommendable for the beauty of the place. The wines are approachable, although quite commercial because they are enjoyed with ease, but lack the structure and complexity of a good Pauillac or Pomerol.
In Saint-Emilion, we visited Franc Mayne, interesting because of its huge underground limestone quarry caves which are now used as cellars, but the wines were not memorable, tannic, and with little fruit.
To visit the best Chateux en Bordeaux, it is indispensable to write ahead of time and to request appointments. The Chateaux that allow visitors without reservations are the most commercial and least interesting.
Salvador and Illuminata
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