Dinner at Cordeillan-Bages, 33250 Pauillac. It is on a luxury hotel with a restaurant of the same name, which has received 2 Michelin stars. After cocktails on the terrace, we went for Fraicheur de Crabe Royal, Gambas Roties, Cochon de Lait, Florentine D Oeuf, and for dessert, Roquefort Glace. Given that this hotel-restaurant is part of the Chateau Cordeillan-Bages, a minuscule, 2 hectare vineyard in the heart of Pauillac, we chose the 1996 Cordeillan-Bages, an extraordinary wine with great structure and with a balance that only a mature Pauillac can offer.
Chef Jean-Luc Rocha was awarded the coveted "Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2007" and this is reflected on dishes that wre fresh, exquisite, very unique, and experimental. The decoration is ascetic, minimalist, and modern, but service is refined and cordial.
The 2 Michelin stars are well deserved, even though the decoration could have made better use of the location, as it is surrounded by the best vineyards on the planet.
Salvador and Illuminata
Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bordeaux. Show all posts
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Logis de la Cadene, Saint-Emilion
We dined at Logis de la Cadene, 3 place du Marche au Bois (and across the street from Le Tertre), Saint-Emilion, following the recommendation of celebrated wine critic Robert Parker in its fourth edition of Bordeaux wine. It was a grave mistake. Although the place is very beautiful because it is surrounded by a medieval atmosphere and has a wonderful terrace, the problems were numerous, including insect that tormented us throughout, and a service that was clumsy vulgar, and horrendous.
The food was relatively good and simple, and the brochettes of pork trip, the flagship dish, were stupendous. Nevertheless, the place is a tourist trap, among whom, dear readers, you are no longer included, and thus we trust that you will make sure to avoid the Logis de la Cadene in your next visit to Saint-Emilion.
Salvador and Illuminata
The food was relatively good and simple, and the brochettes of pork trip, the flagship dish, were stupendous. Nevertheless, the place is a tourist trap, among whom, dear readers, you are no longer included, and thus we trust that you will make sure to avoid the Logis de la Cadene in your next visit to Saint-Emilion.
Salvador and Illuminata
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
La Grand'Vigne, Les Sources de Caudalie
We had dinner at La Grand'Vigne, a 1 Michelin Star Restaurant of Chef Nicolas Masse, at the Hotel and Spa Les Sources de Caudalie in Graves, Bordeaux (http://www.sources-caudalie.com/#/GrandVigne/). Despite being a great restaurant, we are not fully convinced that it deserves a Michelin star. The place is beautiful, within the Chateau Smith Haut-Lafite complex. The decoration is "rural elegant," and the welcoming by the Maitre'd was first class and very cordial. We chose the Menu Degustation, very fresh and varied, and based on regional ingredients that included Quail Eggs with Asparragus, Foie gras, Sole and Veal. The wine, Chateau Le Bon Pasteur 2002, Pomerol, was perfectly balanced and was a clear example of a good Pomerol in full maturity.
But there were some details that lower its level, for example, the view is of a terrace in which guests of the hotel have drinks, as opposed to a view of the beautiful gardens, so that it is impossible not to see people in various stages of undressing walking by. But the worse were the flies on the cheese tray....
These are small details that can change the category of any restaurant immediately. Unless they correct these issues, they risk loosing their only Michelin star.
Salvador and Illuminata
But there were some details that lower its level, for example, the view is of a terrace in which guests of the hotel have drinks, as opposed to a view of the beautiful gardens, so that it is impossible not to see people in various stages of undressing walking by. But the worse were the flies on the cheese tray....
These are small details that can change the category of any restaurant immediately. Unless they correct these issues, they risk loosing their only Michelin star.
Salvador and Illuminata
Chateaux in Bordeaux, June 2010
We visited several Chateaux in Bordeaux, among them:
In Paulliac, Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Deuxieme Cru Classe en 1855. The Chateau itself is one of the most beautiful buildings, and the treatment we received was magnificent. The wines are elegant and balanced, with emphasis in maintaining the wine characteristics even in difficult vintages. Highly recommendable.
Also in Paulliac, Pontet-Canet, Cinquieme Cru Classe en 1855. They emphasize a "bio-dinamyc" system without pesticides or herbicides. They are even starting to use horses instead of tractors to minimize soil compaction. The subterranean cellar is dark, humid, and full of wines although these are not too old (the oldest goes back to 1940). We tried the 2003, fruity and balanced.
In Margaux, Chateau Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classe en 1855. It is not easy to visit the Chateau, and thus we had a lot of expectations, but the experience was disappointing. The Pavillion Rouge 2003 had nothing special to it, and the 2003 Margaux was austere, with little bouquet, although well balanced. We were fortunate to talk with Paul Pontallier, the Director General, a friendly and charismatic person.
In Graves, we visited Smith Haut-Lafite, recommendable for the beauty of the place. The wines are approachable, although quite commercial because they are enjoyed with ease, but lack the structure and complexity of a good Pauillac or Pomerol.
In Saint-Emilion, we visited Franc Mayne, interesting because of its huge underground limestone quarry caves which are now used as cellars, but the wines were not memorable, tannic, and with little fruit.
To visit the best Chateux en Bordeaux, it is indispensable to write ahead of time and to request appointments. The Chateaux that allow visitors without reservations are the most commercial and least interesting.
Salvador and Illuminata
In Paulliac, Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Deuxieme Cru Classe en 1855. The Chateau itself is one of the most beautiful buildings, and the treatment we received was magnificent. The wines are elegant and balanced, with emphasis in maintaining the wine characteristics even in difficult vintages. Highly recommendable.
Also in Paulliac, Pontet-Canet, Cinquieme Cru Classe en 1855. They emphasize a "bio-dinamyc" system without pesticides or herbicides. They are even starting to use horses instead of tractors to minimize soil compaction. The subterranean cellar is dark, humid, and full of wines although these are not too old (the oldest goes back to 1940). We tried the 2003, fruity and balanced.
In Margaux, Chateau Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classe en 1855. It is not easy to visit the Chateau, and thus we had a lot of expectations, but the experience was disappointing. The Pavillion Rouge 2003 had nothing special to it, and the 2003 Margaux was austere, with little bouquet, although well balanced. We were fortunate to talk with Paul Pontallier, the Director General, a friendly and charismatic person.
In Graves, we visited Smith Haut-Lafite, recommendable for the beauty of the place. The wines are approachable, although quite commercial because they are enjoyed with ease, but lack the structure and complexity of a good Pauillac or Pomerol.
In Saint-Emilion, we visited Franc Mayne, interesting because of its huge underground limestone quarry caves which are now used as cellars, but the wines were not memorable, tannic, and with little fruit.
To visit the best Chateux en Bordeaux, it is indispensable to write ahead of time and to request appointments. The Chateaux that allow visitors without reservations are the most commercial and least interesting.
Salvador and Illuminata
Le Bouchon, Saint-Emilion
The first night we dinned at Le Bouchon (3 Place du Marche, St. Emilion 33330), in the picturesque and medieval town of Saint-Emilion. They have tables both outside (in the square) as well as inside. The food was very good but not exceptional or memorable. The house wine (Saint-Emilion!) was nice, Chateau Bernateau 2004, with good bouquet, terroir, fruit and balance. The square is not invaded by tourists like other European cities, which makes it peaceful and enjoyable.
Salvador and Illuminata
Salvador and Illuminata
Bordeaux, France, June 2010
We will post several separate entries covering our Bordeaux and Paris trip on June 21-30, 2010. In Bordeaux, we stayed at the Hotel Chateau Grand Barrail (Rue de Liborne D243 Saint-Emilion), an excellent choice. It is an old Chateau, restored to modern standards, and surrounded by vineyards. Service is very good. It is located between the horrible town of Libourne and the extraordinary medieval town of Saint-Emilion. It is well located to visit the appellations of Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, and Lalande de Pomerol, but not to visit those in the left bank (Haut-Medoc, Graves) to which it can take up to two hours to get due to the traffic in the city of Bordeaux.
In general, a trip to Bordeaux is recommendable only to wine lovers, but not for the everyday traveler, even if sophisticated. With the exception of Saint-Emilion, the area is not the most beautiful in France. Rather, it is an agro-industrial zone with lots of trucks and large deposits along the roads. The wine zones themselves, i.e., the appellations are spectacular, particularly the Chateaux in the Haut-Medoc. Nevertheless, and unless these Chateaux can be visited from the inside, for which previous appointments and even recommendations are required, they can only be seen from the outside.
Salvador and Illuminata
In general, a trip to Bordeaux is recommendable only to wine lovers, but not for the everyday traveler, even if sophisticated. With the exception of Saint-Emilion, the area is not the most beautiful in France. Rather, it is an agro-industrial zone with lots of trucks and large deposits along the roads. The wine zones themselves, i.e., the appellations are spectacular, particularly the Chateaux in the Haut-Medoc. Nevertheless, and unless these Chateaux can be visited from the inside, for which previous appointments and even recommendations are required, they can only be seen from the outside.
Salvador and Illuminata
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