El Mercado

Last Saturday, we were finally able to lunch at El Mercado (Unanue 203 Miraflores). Given that it is impossible to get an open reservation, we ventured into it at 2 PM and were quickly accommodated at the Bar. What a surprise, it was the best seat in the house because we had in front of us no other than Chef Rafael Osterling himself inspecting and sending the plates to the tables like a switchboard. It was an amazing experience to observe Rafael totally focused and with more concentration than that of a pilot landing a 747-400, and placing on every single plate, without an exception, a last touch: a tiny bit of rock salt, a drop of olive oil.....and on a couple of occasions, sending back plates that were not worth his name. Evidently, the Chef Profession is as, or more sophisticated, than that of a Surgeon.

Going back to the Restaurant, and regarding the "noise" generated by its inauguration, we are convinced that all the hype is well deserved. The decoration is excellent, with high quality but simple materials, such as wood and tile. The critical details are those that made Pescados Capitales the Seafood Cathedral of Lima: high and open ceilings, a rural feeling to the place. But El Mercado greatly improves upon Pescados..... The service, the ambiance, and the food quality do not have comparison in Lima. It is a level of sophistication that has never been seen before. Service was correct, despite some lack of coordination to be expected from a brand new place. Nevertheless, the attention to detail places El Mercado at a new gastronomic level. Our most sincere congratulations.

The Maracuya Sour was perfect. The wines by the glass were not that great, attention to the wine list by the glass please! But food was spectacular: we shared the Ceviche El Mercado (their Flagship). Before I die, please, I want to vividly remember this dish.... a ceviche with Fried Calamari designed to be served to the Roman Gods at the Pantheon. The main courses were also memorable: Tacu-Tacu for Illuminata, and Tuna for me, with sophisticated flavors borrowed from Rafael, but with a touch of El Mercado.

In summary, this is the type of innovations that improve Peruvian food. It is competition that makes the tide go up, and keeps competitors under check. Improve upwards, or disappear. Peru wins. And so do we, as well as our exclusive readers.

Salvador